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ORIGINAL SOURCE

In 1827 two brothers from Switzerland named Giovanni and Pietro Del-Monico—the one a wine importer, the other a pastry chef—opened a shop on William Street [in New York City] with a half-dozen pine tables where customers could sample fine French pastries, coffee, chocolate, wine, and liquor. Three years later, the Delmonicos (as John and Peter now called themselves) opened a “Restaurant Français” next door that was among the first in town to let diners order from a menu of choices, at any time they pleased, and sit at their own cloth-covered tables. This was a sharp break from the fixed fare and simultaneous seatings at common hotel tables—so crowded (one guidebook warned) that your elbows were “pinned down to your sides like the wings of a trussed fowl.” New Yorkers were a bit unsure about fancy foreign customs at first, and the earliest patrons tended to be resident European agents of export houses, who felt themselves marooned among a people with barbarous eating habits. The idea soon caught on, however; more restaurants appeared, and harried businessmen abandoned the ancient practice of going home for lunch.

From Burrows, Edwin G., and Mike Wallace. Gotham: A History of New York City to 1898. Oxford UP, 1999.

[The source passage is from pages 436-37. Page 436 ends after the first dash in the first sentence.]

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