Living in the Past: Male Clothing and Masculinity

image
Padded leather jerkin embroidered with silk and metal thread from the late sixteenth century. There are eyelets for tying up hose inside. (Museo Stibbert, Florence)

In the Renaissance wealthy people displayed their power and prosperity on their bodies as well as in their houses and household furnishings. Expanded trade brought in silks, pearls, gemstones, feathers, dyes, and furs, which tailors, goldsmiths, seamstresses, furriers, and hatmakers turned into magnificent clothing and jewelry. Nowhere was fashion more evident than on the men in Renaissance cities and courts. Young men favored multicolored garments that fit tightly, often topping the ensemble with a matching hat on carefully combed long hair. The close-cut garments emphasized the male form, which was further accentuated by tight hose stylishly split to reveal a brightly colored codpiece. Older men favored more subdued colors but with multiple padded shirts, vests, and coats that emphasized real or simulated upper-body strength and that allowed the display of many layers of expensive fabrics. Golden rings, earrings, pins, and necklaces provided additional glamour.

image
The Venetian painter Titian’s portrait of Emperor Charles V with one of his hunting dogs. (Prado, Madrid, Spain/Giraudon/The Bridgeman Art Library)
image
Two young men, who are side figures in The Adoration of the Magi, by Luca Signorelli (1445–1523). (Scala/Art Resource, NY)

QUESTIONS FOR ANALYSIS

  1. Question

    lSLQ5RfHchCYiAVHrqHpOOGrkYINVpU5kW7buufNmjBtF0J8ZulT6TdNn9Ur1ixchppn/mdP0bI4zGotQeOGXYe534/VtZAacIlkLvEXDJ/KME4Qql7qHenXupCJi8Eeq2Rqci+s/mth08dfHQ2LWu+pfSWG7kAjKPN5cJBR1Ov3/ONVybT+cP5VlBB2BYil5EQXXMS6Xpwt96cy8I5Oj6xJj40beFxhD4ymhw==
  2. Question

    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